The Worshipful Company of Feltmakers of London

Makers

The exhibition ‘Unveiled - The Craft of Millinery’ brings together 18 milliners, chosen for their diverse designs and unique skills, to give an insight into the particular workings and craftsmanship of each. Supported by The Worshipful Company of Feltmakers and hosted by The ArtWorkers Guild.

Rachel Trevor-Morgan

Rachel Trevor-Morgan

Established in 1990, Rachel Trevor-Morgan has built a thriving and successful millinery business. Rachel operates from her 17th century atelier in London St James's where she delivers private client commissions. Her mission is to provide her clients with the perfect hat or headpiece.

She is renowned for her beautiful handwork and design resulting in the glamorous, feminine elegance on which she has built her reputation. Her success arises from a passion for her craft, and an understanding of the balance required for a hat to flatter and finish an outfit.

In January 2014 Rachel was granted the Royal Warrant for HM The Queen.

www.racheltrevormorgan.com

Edwina Ibbotson

Edwina Ibbotson

Edwina started her Millinery business in 1991, and has been working from her shop in Battersea, London for the last 19 years. She studied millinery at The Fashion Institute (FIT) New York and The London College of Fashion, as well as doing private classes with some of the world’s finest milliners. Her work experience in Paris and for a top London milliner, also added to her couture millinery skills.

Edwina’s work is bespoke, each piece is totally hand crafted. She works directly with her clients and their designers to create individual one off pieces to compliment their style, outfit, occasion and location of their special day. Edwina’s pieces are feminine, glamorous and comfortable to wear. The most important part of a hat to her is the silhouette, along side the craftsmanship . Each piece is designed to look beautiful from all angles. She and her team aim to make the most perfect piece for each and every client , Her work is a labour of love.

www.edwinaibbotson.com

Noel Stewart

Noel Stewart

Noel Stewart is a London based milliner with international status.

Taking inspiration from contemporary art and architecture whilst using his extensive skills, he modernises millinery and creates a fresh and elegant approach to how we dress the head. Noels collections for men and women combine luxury materials and traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation.

www.noelstewart.com

Philip Treacy

Philip Treacy

Exquisite handcrafted sculptural masterpieces showcase the fantastical imagination of this quietly spoken Irishman who, for over 25 years has created couture hats that draw admiration and surprise in equal measure and transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary. Philip Treacy has been rewarded with an honorary OBE granted by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales in 2007 for his service to the British fashion industry and the title of British Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards – five times.

Using fashion catwalk as his platform around the world to inspire and to challenge people’s perception of the hat. Clients include the Duchess of Cornwall and the Duchess of Cambridge, Lady Gaga, Grace Jones, Madonna and Kate Moss.

www.philiptreacy.co.uk

Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones

Born in Cheshire, and schooled in Liverpool, Stephen Jones burst on to the London fashion scene during its explosion of street style in the late seventies. By day, he was a student at St Martins; after dark he was one of that era's uncompromising style-blazers at the legendary Blitz nightclub - always crowned with a striking hat of his own idiosyncratic design.

By 1980, Jones had opened his first millinery salon in the heart of London's Covent Garden. Those premises soon became a place of pilgrimage and patronage, as everyone from rock stars to royalty, from Boy George to Diana, Princess of Wales, identified Jones as the milliner who would help them make arresting headlines. Thirty-five years later, Jones's era-defining edge continues to attract a celebrity clientele which includes, Rihanna, Dita von Teese, Mick Jagger, and the Princesses.

Now, as ever, at the forefront of fashion, his beguiling hats routinely grace the most celebrated magazine covers and enliven window displays of the world's most stylish stores. From runways to race-courses, from pop-promos to royal garden parties, millinery by Stephen Jones adds the exclamation mark to every fashion statement.

www.stephenjonesmillinery.com

Bridget Bailey

Bridget Bailey

Bridget Bailey has a wealth of experience and an international reputation for both her millinery and her masterclasses. She studied textiles - always a strong influence in her work - and made her first millinery collection in 1984 for Jean Muir. In 1989, she co-founded the Bailey Tomlin brand and developed an extensive list of clients, from Liberty and Saks Fifth Avenue to the V&A.

Bridget now works as an artist in her London studio, making one-off pieces for exhibitions and commissions. She has earned a reputation for combining intriguing ideas and observations with her very particular textile and millinery skills, which form the basis of her masterclasses. Exhibitions include Mad for Tea at Fortnum and Mason, Crafted, Makers of the Exceptional at the Royal Academy, Absolutely Buzzing, a solo show at Inspired by,,, Gallery, in the North York Moors National Park.

www.bridgetbailey.co.uk

John Boyd

John Boyd (1925-2018)

At the age of 16 John Boyd moved from Edinburgh to London to work for Aage Tharrup the top London milliner who made hats for the Queen Mother.

In 1944 Mr Boyd joined the Navy and took part in the D-Day landings. After the war he opened his first shop in Lowndes Street, Knightsbridge where one of his clients was the young Princess Anne. He gained much acclaim during this period and quickly grew to be one of London’s best loved milliners.

In 1981 John Boyd was introduced to the young Princess Diana. He made many of her hats at this time including her going away tricorn which he made as a wedding gift to her. John Boyd continued his success in his Knightsbridge atelier, where he was still hand making hats until his death in 2018 aged 92.

www.johnboydhats.co.uk

Justin Smith

Justin Smith

Justin Smith graduated from the Royal College of Art, with an MA in Millinery after studying the discipline for 6 years. He started the J Smith Esquire brand in 2007 and since then has created seventeen hat collections, most recently “Gold” in summer 2017.

Justin has been involved with London, Paris and Milan Fashion weeks, and emerging fashion weeks such as Jakarta and Rome Couture. His collaborations with leading designers include Stella McCartney, Moschino, Manish Aurora and Aganovich. His millinery for motion pictures can be seen in Star Wars The Last Jedi, The Man From Uncle, Pan, By The Sea and the iconic leather headdress for Angelina Jolie’s Maleficent.

Known as the artist of the millinery world, Justin has received the British Council's Young Fashion Entrepreneur award 2010, the Generali Future Award at ITS in 2016. His work can regularly be seen in the style press and on display in galleries from the FIT in New York to the V&A in London. Justin passionately upholds the traditions of millinery, whilst redefining classic headwear, challenging conventions and technique alike.

www.jsmithesquire.com

Karen Henriksen

Karen Henriksen

Karen Henriksen brings a milliner's aesthetic and craftsmanship to everyday headwear, combining a singular approach to design and pattern-cutting with a passion for beautiful and practical (mostly British) fabrics. Her hats are instantly recognisable, striking a carefully considered balance between elegance, innovation and functionality.

While studying at the Royal College of Art, Karen’s experiments with asymmetric pattern-cutting led to her re-interpretation of a traditional English icon, the flat cap. She graduated in 2003 and has since become known for re-visiting other classic styles such as the peaked cap, the fedora, the cloche and the beret.

Karen designs and makes her men’s, women’s and couture collections entirely in her London studio at Cockpit Arts, where she established the brand in 2005. She is also the author of ‘Design and Make Fashion Hats’ (A&C Black 2009) - a practical, detailed and inspiring guide to millinery.

www.karenhenriksen.co.uk

Piers Atkinson

Piers Atkinson

Piers Atkinson launched his first collection of luxury, handmade headpieces in 2008, the collection contained elements of his roots; from fashion and theatre to sculpture and the wild, energetic excesses of the London club scene. Piers creates a new collection of prêt-à-porter pieces each season. Each design sits on the knife edge between classic sophistication and outré wit, embodied by the now-famous Hyper-Cherry headpiece first seen on Japanese Vogue’s editor on the front row at Prada.

Each piece is created by Atkinson and his team of craftspeople in his East London studio, using couture skills ranging from leatherwork, embroidery and traditional hat-blocking to gold leafing, prop-making and hand-beading.

The glamorous nature of Piers’ designs are de rigueur at events and parties and have been seen on stylish women (and some men) around the world from Rio to Tokyo, from London to LA. He has dressed such icons as Andrea Dellal, Beyonce, Cate Blanchett, Charlotte Olympia, Kate Moss, Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus, Rihanna, Dame Joan Collins and Dame Zandra Rhodes. The Princesses of York and Dame Shirley Bassey have worn his hats at Ascot.

www.piersatkinson.com

Sophie Beale

Sophie Beale

Sophie Beale Millinery is conceptual and innovative, yet flattering and sophisticated. Each piece is hand crafted with a chic flair and minimal fuss. Named Britain’s hottest new milliner in 2012, Sophie Beale has won multiple awards including the British Fashion Council and Grazia magazine’s national Hat Factor competition, which celebrated Britain’s finest millinery in association with the London Olympics.

The brand has been part of Headonism for five seasons, an initiative supporting the nation’s most unique millinery talent, curated by Stephen Jones OBE and the British Fashion Council. The brand has featured on the cover of Royal Ascot’s Style Guide and was part of The Royal Ascot Millinery Collective 2017 in association with Fenwick. Sophie also made appearances on Channel 4 as a millinery expert in the lead up to Ascot 2015.

Prior to working with a wide range of world-renowned milliners, Sophie studied the highly regarded HNC Millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College, where she now teaches.

www.sophiebealemillinery.com

Harvy Santos

Harvy Santos

Harvy Santos is a London-based milliner who creates hats and couture headpieces that fuse traditional techniques with new materials, and timeless elegance with 21st century fun. Featuring exquisite details and fine lines, his fearless fashion pieces are all unique creations entirely hand made from luxurious materials in his London studio.

Born in the Philippines, Harvy began his career as a professional ballet dancer in the Hong Kong Ballet, where he danced in all its major productions for six seasons, including tours in Europe, the US and Australia. He then studied millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College and has worked for The Royal Opera House, Noel Stewart, and Stephen Jones. His classical training, both on stage and in the workshop, continues to inform his elegantly energetic work.

Winner of multiple awards for his work, Harvy was named The HAT Magazine's Hat Designer of the Year in 2013. His hats have appeared in The Financial Times, Vogue Japan, Vogue Turkey, Vogue Netherlands, Harper's Bazaar China, Arena Homme Plus, Cosmopolitan, W Magazine, Elle and T Magazine. His hats feature regularly in the Royal Ascot style guide, and have been worn by pop divas including Hebe Tien and Lady Gaga.

Harvy is honoured to be participating in the British Fashion Council’s Headonism initiative.

www.harvysantos.com

The Season Hats

The Season Hats

Paul Stafford holds an MA in Natural Sciences from the University of Cambridge, which forms the basis for his scientific and engineered approach to construction. He trained in traditional technique under Rachel Trevor-Morgan (milliner to HRH The Queen) developing an attention to the finest details and skilled handwork. During his MA in Fashion Womenswear specialising in Millinery, from the Royal College of Art, Paul refined his approach to design, how he works with materials, and defining his softly geometric aesthetic.

Paul and his wife Selina launched The Season Hats in 2014, a millinery brand fulfilling the headwear needs of the modern international wardrobe. Paul’s engineered yet playful approach works with each material’s properties and integrates materials in innovative ways. Beautifully high-fashion with a desirable minimalism, The Season Hats has a unique style, offering contemporary refinement combined with wearability.

Collections are exhibited at London Fashion Week as part of the BFC and Stephen Jones’s Headonism Initiative.

www.theseasonhats.com

Jo Miller

Jo Miller

Jo Miller has a background as an artist and originally studied a BA (Hons) in Fine Art. From the North of England, she relocated to London in 2011 to re-train in millinery. She studied an HNC in Millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College and went on to study a two year MA in Millinery at the Royal College of Art. After graduating in 2014, she worked for three years full time in Stephen Jones model department, honing her millinery skills and understanding of the industry.

She was chosen in 2015 to be a resident milliner at Sarabande Studios, set up by the Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation to support young designers pushing the boundaries of their field. Here, she spent two years building up her experience of collaborating on headwear with other designers in fashion, alongside developing her own practice.

Today, she focuses on creating her own collections under the label, Miller in London.

www.millinerlondon.com

House of Flora

House of Flora

Flora McLean is a practicing fashion designer, prior to establishing her 20 year old brand, House of Flora - McLean undertook an MA in Fashion Womenswear at the Royal College of Art, winning first prize in the Kangol Hat competition.

Flora creates avant-garde headwear for the catwalk, fashion campaigns and collectors. She has collaborated with Givenchy couture, Bill Blass and Diane Von Furstenberg; her iconic heads collaboration with hair stylist Neil Moodie is in its 11th year. McLean designed lucite visors for the Jamaican Team/Puma for London 2012. House of Flora now includes statement fashion jewellery and eyewear.

Her iconic PVC beret (modelled by Beyonce) was exhibited in The V&A Anthology of Hats 2009. McLean won the Jerwood contemporary makers Prize in 2010. McLean continues to push the boundaries of accessories with new technologies and unique interpretation of the world. She is senior lecturer in Fashion Accessories and Millinery at The Royal College of Art, London.

www.houseofflora.net

Jane Smith

Jane Smith

Jane Smith started making hats for theatre and film in 1968, and works in felt, straw, buckram, plastic and fabric in her London studio. A leading figure in theatrical millinery, she makes uniform caps and hats, naval bicornes, chapeau bras, top hats and many more. Her work features widely in television, film and theatre.

Her hats can be seen in the such films as The Duchess, The Iron Lady, Master and Commander, Bright Star, Sweeney Todd, Harry Potter, Jane Eyre, Great Expectations, The Invisible Woman, Pan and 47 Ronin. She is currently working on Guy Ritchie’s King Arthur.

www.janesmithhats.co.uk

Lucy Barlow

Lucy Barlow

Lucy apprenticed with Philip Somerville of Bond street, and then went on to work in Paris under the Master Milliner Jean Barthet working on the catwalk shows of Karl Lagerfeld, Claude Montana, Balenciaga, Chanel, Yves St Laurent and Thierry Mugler.

In 1990 after opening her shop in Portobello road she bought the first of her 150 yr old ‘17 guinea’ braid machines and developed a style that fused old traditional techniques with new dyeing techniques and her collection was snapped up by Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Barney’s New York. In 1997 she started designing Hayashi Yaokichi Co, the biggest hat distributor in Japan, and teamed up with Vecchi, a small ‘Paglina’ ( stitched braid ) hat factory in the Marche region of Italy, with whom she still collaborates with to this day.

Publications of her work include Vogue, Tatler, Harpers & Queen, L’ Officiel , Italian Vogue, ID, Dazed & Confused, Arena and Harpers Bazaar.

www.lucybarlow.com